Just a few days ago I performed the external PCV check valve mod. In the process, I didn't get the PCV hose on securely at the intake manifold and ended up with a CEL and vacuum leak a few days later. In the diagnosis process I broke that hose near the intake manifold. This corrugated plastic hose gets extremely brittle, even under normal operating conditions. (My car does not see extreme duty, has only 44k, and I live near Portland, OR - relatively cool most of the year). I came up with two options. 1) AC Delco replacement on Amazon - $43. Upsides: easy, OEM, looks good, also comes with the very small vacuum line that is in the same run. Downsides: will fail again, $43, have to wait 2 days to get it. 2) Use the connectors at both ends of the original hose and replace the plastic corrugated middle section with bulk hose from a parts house. I went with number 2. Here's what I did.1. Carefully cut the corrugated hose off both end connectors. Use a utility knife to split it along the male end of the connector and gently pull/pry it off. I think it was originally heat shrunk on there so it's a very tight fit, but it comes off. The turbo end connector has a check valve in it - at this point you should check to make sure that is working properly. Clean the connector so you're comfortable putting your mouth around the nipple where the hose was. You should be able to blow into it with no restriction, but you should not be able to suck. 2. Parts: a) 5/8" ID hose. I went to AutoZone expecting to get vacuum line like you'd see going to the brake booster on an older, bigger car, but surprisingly they didn't have anything big enough. I went with heater hose instead. Wasn't my first choice, but it should be fine for what we're doing. I'll be keeping an eye on it for durability. b) 90 degree PCV connector. The heater hose is very flexible and I was concerned it wouldn't handle the 90 degree bend at the left rear corner of the valve cover. AutoZone actually has a small section devoted to PCV stuff and I found Dorman part 47032 (actually for Ford) that was exactly what I needed. c) Zip ties. 3. Cut the hoses to the right lengths to match the original hose routing. Install both ends and the 90 degree fitting at the correct location. A small dab of grease or vaseline is very helpful for sliding the connectors on to the hose. The hose is probably fine without any clamping at the connectors, but I used zip ties and pulled them tight with pliers. Install the connector at the intake manifold - press down until it snaps in, push the metal clip in to lock it. Route the hose the same as it was originally. The ring clips on the back of the intake manifold are too small for the heater hose so they have to be removed. Use zip ties to secure the hoses to the clips' mounting tabs. The c-clips on the left side of the valve cover fit the new hose fine. Push on the connector at the turbo - make sure it snaps in too. Further secure the hose with additional zip ties if needed. Done. (I removed the air intake pipe between the air box and turbo for better access)I cleared the code/CEL by removing the negative battery cable while I was fabricating the hose. Started it up and immediately noticed the high and erratic idle I was experiencing was gone. Took it out for a test drive and between this fix, the external PCV mod, bypassing the air resonator, and K&N panel air cleaner it was like a new car. I'm hoping I've put PCV issues to bed for a long time now. I have pics, but they seem to not be uploading. I think I saw that this feature may not be working properly on the site, I will upload them when it's available.
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Corrugated PCV Hose Replacement/Upgrade
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Single "Click" when Gas Pedal Pressed/Depressed
Hi All, Bought the Cruze Diesel back in July 2013 and have thoroughly enjoyed this car thus far. Got about 130K on it now, just changed brakes for first time!About a week after changing brakes, I started noticing a single click or pop noise coming from the engine compartment whenever the gas pedal is pressed and depressed, regardless of speed. This only happens while in gear, the symptom is not present when the car is in park or neutral, so I suspect that it is not an engine/tranny mount issue. It also makes the same single click right before I come to a complete stop when braking. Have you ever heard of such a thing? Any one have an idea what the problem is?
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p0171 P1011 Rough Idle when Temps below freezing. HELP
2011 chevy cruze eco 135,000 milesSo I took my car to the shop and got a smoke test for the p0171 code and +22 LTFT, They found the PCV leaking. My wife went and told them to replace it ( I was sleeping SMH) well $270 later. (it makes me sick over a $48 part I could of did in my sleep). I get the car back. I drive it home around 45 Degrees out, LTFT is staying around 0 to +7. I start it after work, Temps in the 20s it idles like crap, and almost stalls twice. LTFT was at +32 and a pending p0171 code. Drove it home, LTFT was staying around +7, idle after warm up around +6. Got home, tried to see if there was another air leak, I cant find one, after messing around it set of a p1011 code, Im not sure if it was from me. It set off that code once before, but when I reset it it never came back just the p0171. Does anyone know correct MAF readings on the cruze?And any ideas on my Rough idle only on a Very cold temp start, and high LTFT still after pcv was changed?PS Manisfold does have the orange check valve present.
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More Fluids and Tools at RockAuto.com!
More Fluids and Lubricants! RockAuto's selection of Motor Oil, Coolant/Antifreeze, Transmission Fluid, Brake Fluid and other products by Aisin, Motorcraft, Beck/Arnley, Pentosin, etc. continues to expand so you have convenient access to the fluids specified for your vehicle. Help ensure successful repairs with Dielectric Grease, A/C Flush, Brake Lubricant, Transmission Fluid Conditioner and other new products by AGS, GPD, Four Seasons, Lucas Oil, and more. ![]()
Find the fluid, chemical or lubricant you need under "Fluid" in the relevant category for your specific vehicle (Cooling System, Engine, Transmission-Automatic...) and under the "Tools & Universal Parts" tab. More Specialty Tools! RockAuto now has even more tools designed to assist with specific repairs. Our tools by GPD, Lisle, Performance Tool and others will get the job done correctly and can transform a knuckle-busting odyssey into an efficient, enjoyable repair. ![]()
Find a Pitman Arm Puller, Piston Ring Installer, Flywheel Turner, Cam Pulley Holder and all the other specialty tools under "Tool" in the relevant category (Steering, Fuel & Air...) of the "Tools & Universal Parts" tab.
Find the fluid, chemical or lubricant you need under "Fluid" in the relevant category for your specific vehicle (Cooling System, Engine, Transmission-Automatic...) and under the "Tools & Universal Parts" tab. More Specialty Tools! RockAuto now has even more tools designed to assist with specific repairs. Our tools by GPD, Lisle, Performance Tool and others will get the job done correctly and can transform a knuckle-busting odyssey into an efficient, enjoyable repair. 
Find a Pitman Arm Puller, Piston Ring Installer, Flywheel Turner, Cam Pulley Holder and all the other specialty tools under "Tool" in the relevant category (Steering, Fuel & Air...) of the "Tools & Universal Parts" tab.↧
New Cruze owner. 2013 Chevy Cruze LS
- Welp I picked up a 2013 Chevy Cruze LS with 44k miles this past weekend. It drives great and is a nice upgrade from my 2003 Dodge Neon ES. The only issue it seemed to have was a intermittent miss fire that the dealer had to flush something out and send it across the street to a chevy dealer for a software update which was all under an 8 year/80k miles (think that was it) warranty still. Drove it home today and felt great. The only thing I wish it would of had is the touch screen system. I'm going to look at options for adding OEM or a 3rd party system that can run Android Auto. I am also going to look into possibly getting cruise added to it. Right now the steering wheel only has phone and audio controls. I plan to get a lot of years/miles out of this car since it is my first car with as low of miles.
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Adding a spare battery
Anyone done it? What do you guys think would be a good second battery to install. And how?
I don't know if i want to charge only or use it as a spare for whatever reason without draining the main battery. Or just simply add some extra amps.
I"m toying with the idea of maybe just a motorcycle sized battery added to the main.
Now that i've finally got an actual screen and if i can figure out how to make it work. I might be watching movies at work. Or whatever.
Using that torque scan trying to download pids which apparently the app don't work. That was a 3 hour process right there. Enough to trigger the low battery alerts.
I don't know if i want to charge only or use it as a spare for whatever reason without draining the main battery. Or just simply add some extra amps.
I"m toying with the idea of maybe just a motorcycle sized battery added to the main.
Now that i've finally got an actual screen and if i can figure out how to make it work. I might be watching movies at work. Or whatever.
Using that torque scan trying to download pids which apparently the app don't work. That was a 3 hour process right there. Enough to trigger the low battery alerts.
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BNR Tune for 2014 1.4t
I have been looking for to tune my car for a while now, and initially i was set on trifecta. Then i read that the BNR tune is a lot better. The price for the BNR tune says its $249.99 without the handheld. Do i need a separate cable and laptop if i pay the $250?
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Backup Camera compatability
Can anyone advise if an OEM backup camera is compatible with a Garmin BC30 wireless sender? I have a Garmin DriveAssist sytem with a wireless back up camera however I would like use an OEM Cruze backup camera instead of the number plate mounted unit. Any assistance will be appreciated.
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2017 Emblem
Hello! I just received my black chevy emblems to replace on my car. Has anyone replace the actual emblem and have any tips? I've watched a couple of youtube videos but none were of a Cruze. I'm just not sure yet if I'll need to remove the grill or if I can fit my hand behind it. (It's been too dark and cold when I get home to look yet) This weekend should be decent weather so I'm planning to do it then.
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
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New to the cruze forum but on my 3rd cruze
Just sold both of my 11 cruzes and upgraded to a 17 premier did almost the same stuff i did to my 11 cruzes spoiler stripes tint and fog lights
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FS eco 17" wheels tires and tpms off 2011 cruze
I have a set of eco 17" polished wheels tires and the tpms are in them came off of my 2011 tires are about 80% life left on them located in central MN looking to get $600 for them
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2011 1.8L, 6T40 trans. (Transmission problems need help)
So as stated my cruze is having some oh so wonderful transmission problems. I've been messing with it for a few weeks now and while I've made progress I've come into other issues.
So let's hit it from the top, approx. 3 weeks ago my wife was pulling into the gas station and the car lost all forward moving capabilities, basically it was treating Drive like Neutral, but could Reverse it's way across the Atlantic if it wanted. So I headed over with some basics, No related DTCs (CEL not illuminated), looked at the shift linkage, all was fine. Checked the transmission level added barely a pint before it started dripping out the check hole. (Note: the fluid looked pretty dark at this time) but still no forward movement, couldn't hear the transmission sound like its even trying to shift, so we towed it to the house.
Next day I drained and filled the trans hoping it was just dirty fluid (Note: I didn't filter the trans fluid for chunks but it did seem quite speckled with shiny flakes) Alas, it still made no attempt to move forward in Drive, and would continue to roll in whatever direction gravity would take it.
So I searched the web (found myself on this forum a few times actually) and the common consensus is GMs wonderful innovation (please watch your step, sarcasm may be dripping) the TEHCM, other than not having any DTCs this made the most sense for my problem. 300 dollars later I've installed and programmed the new TEHCM. I replaced the cooler lines since the compression fittings where starting to leak, and got it topped of on fluids, hop in and slowly go through the gears. And.... IT shifted into Drive!!
Wouldn't it be awesome if that was the end? Yea.. went for a test drive and the transmission is acting like its in 3rd gear and only using 3rd, still no DTCs, and unless I got a faulty TEHCM from dorman what else could I look at?
So let's hit it from the top, approx. 3 weeks ago my wife was pulling into the gas station and the car lost all forward moving capabilities, basically it was treating Drive like Neutral, but could Reverse it's way across the Atlantic if it wanted. So I headed over with some basics, No related DTCs (CEL not illuminated), looked at the shift linkage, all was fine. Checked the transmission level added barely a pint before it started dripping out the check hole. (Note: the fluid looked pretty dark at this time) but still no forward movement, couldn't hear the transmission sound like its even trying to shift, so we towed it to the house.
Next day I drained and filled the trans hoping it was just dirty fluid (Note: I didn't filter the trans fluid for chunks but it did seem quite speckled with shiny flakes) Alas, it still made no attempt to move forward in Drive, and would continue to roll in whatever direction gravity would take it.
So I searched the web (found myself on this forum a few times actually) and the common consensus is GMs wonderful innovation (please watch your step, sarcasm may be dripping) the TEHCM, other than not having any DTCs this made the most sense for my problem. 300 dollars later I've installed and programmed the new TEHCM. I replaced the cooler lines since the compression fittings where starting to leak, and got it topped of on fluids, hop in and slowly go through the gears. And.... IT shifted into Drive!!
Wouldn't it be awesome if that was the end? Yea.. went for a test drive and the transmission is acting like its in 3rd gear and only using 3rd, still no DTCs, and unless I got a faulty TEHCM from dorman what else could I look at?
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Gas cap notification?
I just received a gas cap notification (in the likes of 'Please tighten your gas cap').
It cleared itself as I removed the notification, and aside from some better than usual MPG numbers (50MPG avg at 70MPH instead of 50MPH), the car seemed to run just like it usually does.
The MPG numbers could have been due to a tail wind.
I always use the same procedure of closing the cap.
2 clicks past close, never gave me an error.
Could it be a sensor failure?
Fuel was about 66-75% full, so I don't think fuel was spilling out the tank.
It cleared itself as I removed the notification, and aside from some better than usual MPG numbers (50MPG avg at 70MPH instead of 50MPH), the car seemed to run just like it usually does.
The MPG numbers could have been due to a tail wind.
I always use the same procedure of closing the cap.
2 clicks past close, never gave me an error.
Could it be a sensor failure?
Fuel was about 66-75% full, so I don't think fuel was spilling out the tank.
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Hello from Australia!
Hi all, names Warren.
Basically a long time lurker and keep finding myself here so I thought best to make an account and share knowledge and learn some more!
I currently live in Bathurst, Australia and purchased a Holden Cruze 2010 JG CD for $4000 Turbo Diesel and couldn't be happier since my old love sadly blew the motor and it was just time to move on (2000 Mitsubishi Lancer VR-X)
She has 295872 KM on with complete and full service history and booklet, I honestly couldn't be happier with this car. It's constantly driven 200km everyday even from dealer at 10km.
I've done a few safety mods to it which include fog lights with DRL Halos and a 22" lightbar and I just completed a full service on it myself with 4 brand new tyres, balancing and alignment (can't trust previous owners... really)
Due to my 98% highway driving I average 5.3L/100km which is awesome compared to my gas guzzlin' Lancer at 16.3L/100km.
Anyway, hello!
Basically a long time lurker and keep finding myself here so I thought best to make an account and share knowledge and learn some more!
I currently live in Bathurst, Australia and purchased a Holden Cruze 2010 JG CD for $4000 Turbo Diesel and couldn't be happier since my old love sadly blew the motor and it was just time to move on (2000 Mitsubishi Lancer VR-X)
She has 295872 KM on with complete and full service history and booklet, I honestly couldn't be happier with this car. It's constantly driven 200km everyday even from dealer at 10km.
I've done a few safety mods to it which include fog lights with DRL Halos and a 22" lightbar and I just completed a full service on it myself with 4 brand new tyres, balancing and alignment (can't trust previous owners... really)
Due to my 98% highway driving I average 5.3L/100km which is awesome compared to my gas guzzlin' Lancer at 16.3L/100km.
Anyway, hello!
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Air Intake
So I want to put in something like this: https://www.knfilters.com/news/news.aspx?id=5578
I posted quite a while ago about it on some thread, can't find it anymore. I remember reading someone's post about how it won't really provide any benefit in the long run as the computer will "adjust" itself to the increased airflow. I'm not too concerned about that if that is the case. I'd just like to have less restricted airflow for the turbo and have the turbo a little more audible.
Anyone have this or something similar for their Diesel and can provide any feedback on it? Is there an advantage to taking air in from the engine bay as opposed to the outside? I live in Canada so it can get hot in the summer and very cold in the winter some days.
EDIT: Also just remembered a post about having an filter that is too oily and that it can hurt the turbo. There's dry and oiled filters, I assume?
I posted quite a while ago about it on some thread, can't find it anymore. I remember reading someone's post about how it won't really provide any benefit in the long run as the computer will "adjust" itself to the increased airflow. I'm not too concerned about that if that is the case. I'd just like to have less restricted airflow for the turbo and have the turbo a little more audible.
Anyone have this or something similar for their Diesel and can provide any feedback on it? Is there an advantage to taking air in from the engine bay as opposed to the outside? I live in Canada so it can get hot in the summer and very cold in the winter some days.
EDIT: Also just remembered a post about having an filter that is too oily and that it can hurt the turbo. There's dry and oiled filters, I assume?
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Factory trunk sound deadening location
Hello,
Recently had my 2017 sedan undercoated/rust proofed and the fine fellow who performed it did not put the sound deadening mat back in the proper location (aka, just left it laying in the trunk). Would anyone be able to provide me a picture of how these sit or attach in the rear fender area inside the trunk? There is one piece of this mat on each side.
Thanks much.
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Recently had my 2017 sedan undercoated/rust proofed and the fine fellow who performed it did not put the sound deadening mat back in the proper location (aka, just left it laying in the trunk). Would anyone be able to provide me a picture of how these sit or attach in the rear fender area inside the trunk? There is one piece of this mat on each side.
Thanks much.
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More Crap from Amazon
SACRAMENTO, Calif. --
A contracted Amazon driver in a marked U-Haul van was caught on camera making an unwanted delivery -- human waste.
The deposit happened on a suburban Sacramento street in a quiet cul-de-sac.
The homeowner did not want to be interviewed on-camera, but shared home surveillance video captured this week showing the delivery driver making a human deposit on the curb, right next to his driveway.
Driver delivering Amazon packages caught on camera pooping in driveway | abc7.com
A contracted Amazon driver in a marked U-Haul van was caught on camera making an unwanted delivery -- human waste.
The deposit happened on a suburban Sacramento street in a quiet cul-de-sac.
The homeowner did not want to be interviewed on-camera, but shared home surveillance video captured this week showing the delivery driver making a human deposit on the curb, right next to his driveway.
Driver delivering Amazon packages caught on camera pooping in driveway | abc7.com
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New to the forum
Hello all,
My name is Rick. New to the forum, but pretty familiar with gen 1/2 Cruzes in general. My parents purchased a 2014 CTD new and about a month ago I purchased a 2017 LT sedan. Both are great thus far (2800 miles on mine in 1 month of ownership!) I don't get on forums a ton but hopefully we will be able to provide each other mutual assistance if needed!
My name is Rick. New to the forum, but pretty familiar with gen 1/2 Cruzes in general. My parents purchased a 2014 CTD new and about a month ago I purchased a 2017 LT sedan. Both are great thus far (2800 miles on mine in 1 month of ownership!) I don't get on forums a ton but hopefully we will be able to provide each other mutual assistance if needed!
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Steering wheel controls with Aftermarket head unit
Hi All,
Installed an aftermarket windows CE head unit. Car did not come with steering wheel control, but i got a steering wheel with controls, my clockspring has all the connection to the BCM, but the controls do not work. My question is - is the any way to get the steering wheel controls to work by bypassing the BCM. The head unit uses three wires for the steering wheel control. Any assistance is appreciated.
Thank you.
Installed an aftermarket windows CE head unit. Car did not come with steering wheel control, but i got a steering wheel with controls, my clockspring has all the connection to the BCM, but the controls do not work. My question is - is the any way to get the steering wheel controls to work by bypassing the BCM. The head unit uses three wires for the steering wheel control. Any assistance is appreciated.
Thank you.
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Blue smoke above 3k maybe cracked piston? rebuild?
Have some issues and did some research that is pointing to a cracked piston(s). Driving down the street and had a wierd stumble and car almost died. Drove ok i guess but at or above 3k rpm I get blue smoke out the back. Got home and did a light rev to have oil spit out tail pipe. Verified both check valves are good at the turbo inlet and the nipple is visible on in the intake. Took off my charge hose to the TB and had oil leaking out. Did a compression check and found the following:cyl 1 = 90psicyl 2 = 155psicyl 3 = 150psicyl 4 = 150psiThe right track or am i possibly missing something along the way? any help is appreciated.Mods for reference:2016 cruze ltz limited AutoBNR tuneAEM CAIBNR 52# injectorscatless downpipeBNR ls7coilsBNR wastegateFORGE bypass valve
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