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Idles strangely?

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Hey everyone I'm new. I also own a brand new 2017 Chevy Cruze. I just bought it 3 weeks ago.

Any way...my question (issue) is about how it idles. I've noticed and liked how quiet the engine is. But yesterday with the warmer weather, I rolled down the windows and noticed something:

Many times when I come to a stop light or a stop sign, it gets so quiet that it sounds like the engine is dying. Yesterday was the first day that I began to actually thing it IS dying when I come to a stop. The WEIRD think is...I don't have to restart it...I just hit the gas and it goes. I don't have to restart it, just hitting the gas gets it going. I'm really confused as to what is going on. Does anyone have any ideas?

New from Ohio

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Hey all...just wanted to say thank you for this site! I'm from Ohio and bought my Cruze 3 weeks ago. It's brand spankin' new and so far I'm enjoying it. I had a question about it earlier about the idling. Thank you to the person who gave me his/her input. Much appreciated! This site is great! Thank you SO much! I'll be stopping in regularly.

Melted #3 Injector

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So during my DPF delete kit installation, I noticed that the #3 injector had quite literally melted. The plastic housing has gone to goop, and there's soot spraying (or has sprayed, and the melting has plugged the hole) onto the fuel rails and engine cover.

Does anyone know if GM will cover this under warranty? My car still has 45,000 left on the powertrain warranty. I know they'll give me crap for the delete, but pictures I took show the injector and stock DPF setup before the delete was installed. My theory is that the excessive heat from the DPF melted it, but we'll have to see. I haven't noticed a lack of power or economy, but if there's a pressure leak in that cylinder, than it definitely is a major issue.

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Jack kit, tail light, hubcaps, trim etc

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Jack kit- $50
Rear head rests- $5 each
Tail light- $20
Radio trim with vents- $15
Front bumper trim/ fog light delete panels- $10 for the pair
Trim that goes behind the rear doors- $15 for the pair
Rear seat air bags- $20 for both
Hub caps (I only have three) $10 each
I also have a passengers seat and a rear passengers door, both in excellent condition, for pick up only in Rochester NY.

All parts are plus shipping thanks!

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Hello!

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Just wanted to post up from central Ohio. I traded my 2015 Equinox LTZ in on a 2016 Cruze LT/RS. Love the car so far. Not as small as I thought it might be. It fact it feels really nice on the inside. I needed to scale my payment down since I have a 15yr old that will be driving in the very near future. The better gas mileage is gonna help with that also. As my title states I am a drummer and believe it or not, my drums actually fit in this car. I've always wanted a Cruze, ever since I bought my First Equinox, but my wife thought they were too small. That was after testing out a 2013 Eco 1st gen. She really likes this one though.

Anyhow, hello and here is a pic of my new little commuter car.

Doug
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What is the point of this button?

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Not sure the reasoning for this button? Please enlighten me if you can. I know it's easy to bump if ur changing your oil filter. It doesn't allow you to use reverse or 5th and 6th gears. Only name for it I came up with is linkage limiter. Would like to know the purpose of it?
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Been on the facebook page for a little while just joined the forum though

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hey my names Alex i drive a 2013 chevy cruze eco manual transmission.
i live in northwest connecticut

Question on a chevy mylink

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My 2014 Cruze has that small green screen, can I just buy a chevy mylink radio and just plug it in my car with no issues?

poor quality

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Hi everyone,
What is your experience with the Cruze?
I have had nothing but poor quality and bad customer service with this car. Wondered what others experiences have been.
Thanks,
Jeanette

Wiring Diagram for Glove Box Light? Available anywhere?

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Hello All,

Would anyone with access to the factory service manual happen to have the wiring diagram for the Glove Box Light?

Trying to figure out where the power and grounds branch off from the main loom since GM decided to do away with the wiring that used to be pre-installed but is no more in 2013(?) and beyond.

How-To: Replace 2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Coolant/Water Outlet

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How-To: Replace 2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Coolant/Water Outlet


Overview:
The coolant/water outlet on the 1.4L Turbo engine has a high rate of failure and typically begins to leak at the joint between the water outlet and the recovery tank hose. The repair involves replacement of both the water outlet and the recovery tank hose. The two should be replaced at the same time.


Tools Required:- E10 Socket w/ ratchet
- Flathead screwdriver
- In-lb torque wrench ($33 on Amazon.com)
- Hose clamp pliers ($23 on Amazon.com) (Note: some people try to use pliers for these clamps, but doing so makes the job significantly more difficult. I recommend picking up this tool.
- A clean 1+ gallon bucket


Parts Required:
25193922 Coolant/Water Outlet (~$22 on Amazon.com)
13251447 Recovery Tank Hose (~$14 on Amazon.com)


Procedure:
Unless a coolant flush has been performed recently, it would be a good idea to flush the cooling system when this part is replaced. Begin first by draining the coolant, using the following tutorial:

Note: you will see some extra oil hose in this tutorial that go to my bypass filter. You will not have these hoses on your car, so don't be alarmed if you don't see them.

Remove the clip holding the recovery tank hose onto the water outlet and pull the recovery tank hose out.


Separate the recovery tank hose from the retaining clip shown here:


Using hose clamp pliers, remove the hose clamp at the connection between the recovery tank hose and the coolant reservoir, and remove the hose with a twisting motion.


Using hose clamp pliers, slide the hose clamp down the hose shown here, and remove the hose from the water outlet.


Disconnect the throttle body wire by sliding back the locking retainer (you can use a flathead screwdriver). Using a flathead screwdriver, loosen the intake hose and remove it from the throttle body as shown below. Not shown in this picture, I also removed the wiring connector from the sensor mounted to the top of the intake tube.


Disconnect the O2 sensor harness. You don't absolutely need to disconnect this, but it makes your job a bit easier to do so. There's a plastic retaining clip that you need to slide upward at the same time as you pull outward. This took me a bit of time to get off, but a bit of wiggling and pulling the retaining clip upward and it eventually came loose.


Using hose clamp pliers, slide the hose clamp down the radiator hose, and remove the radiator hose from the water outlet.


Disconnect the wiring connector that goes into the water outlet.


Using hose clamp pliers, slide the hose clamp down the heater core hose, and remove the heater core hose from the water outlet. This will be located underneath the throttle body.


Using the E10 socket, completely loosen the three bolts holding the water outlet.



Remove the water outlet. On mine, the gasket was stuck to the cylinder head. Remove the gasket, and wipe off the surface of the cylinder head to ensure it is free of debris.


Install the new water outlet and torque the E-10 bolts to 71 INCH-POUNDS.

The new recovery tank hose has a retaining clip on the end of the hose. Remove the retaining clip as shown with a screwdriver:



Reconnect all of the hoses and wiring connectors. Don't forget to put the retaining clip back onto the recovery tank hose once reinstalled.

Refill the cooling system through the coolant reservoir.

Water Meth Kit

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I have no access to E85 around here, what water meth kit is best? What kind of power can I be expecting to gain over my current BNR pump tune? How much methanol am I going to be going through? Thanks guys :redface:

It's Official: 52 MPG!

Front Bow tie Removal

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Has anyone removed the front Bow tie? If so were there any tricky clips and such to deal with? Do you have any photo's?

I am getting as much information together for my front end rebuild before I start as this is my daily driver.

I have found a combination of videos and posts for the removal and installation of the front bumper fascia (cover) as well as the side markers. I think I have found some decent threads on the fogs, but not the wiring so I am also still researching that.

Thanks



MODs: can you remove "bow" and "tie" in the tags and put in emblem? The editor allows checking to remove, but doesn't.

Where to put coins?

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I drive an '15 Cruze and just wondering where do everyone stash their coins?

I use the little pocket by the cupholders but I don't like that it's noticeable. I feel like there some a little cover that should be offered as an option.

Also there's that pocket under the HVAC controls. Is there a hidden compartment I don't know about? Or something that I can buy that's a better option?

Gen 2 Upper Intercooler Pipe Project Complete.

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I just completed my DIY intercooler Upper pipes for 2016+ Gen2 Cruze.
No one has it available, so i did it myself.

I currently own a Cobalt SS and my wife has a Gen 2 Cruze Sedan Manual Shift. The ZZP upper and lower pipes on my Cobalt SS were measured and saw that it was close and angles were very similar.
I emailed ZZP and asked if they had plans for the Cruze. They said they had no plans.

I did notice that the upper pipes on the Cruze are the Cold Side air. Yet on the Cobalt these same pipes would be the Hot Pipes. At any rate, without a BOV connected, they pretty much look identical. the only difference is the throttle body on the cruze is a 2 inch opening. The same goes for the exit on the intercooler. This is why i had to find a 2 inch to 2.5 inch silicone elbow which I purchased off of eBay.
I found some Hahn Cobalt pipes someone was selling and started the project yesterday (Sunday).

Before this mod: The Cruze has been Trifecta Tuned for the past couple months. Other than that, it is still stock.

Seat of the pants Result? The first gear lag in my wife's cruze is almost is gone. Not 100 percent, but 85-90 percent better. The pull to 3500 RPMs feels good. I can also hear the turbo. I have never heard it before.

Time from start to finish 3 hours due to cutting and re-cutting to make it fit.
Cobalt Pipes are longer and needed to be cut shorter. The 90 elbow pipes had to be cut down shorter also.
But other than that, it fit perfectly.


Ingredients:
1. Cobalt SS Upper Hot pipes from ZZPerformance or Hahn.
2. 2" to 2.5" 90 degree silicone elbow pipes x 2 <----- You need two of them Bought off of eBay.




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Cruze Diesel pricing

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I just checked out all the info available on Cruze Diesel after seeing a Facebook post from Chevy about its EPA ratings. It also seems the cost is more in line with the LT pricing than the Gen 1 was. I have a 16.5 LT with the sun and sound and convenience packages and that stickers for 24,600 or so. The Diesel comes standard with convenience already and it's sticker was 24,900 or something? If I remember right the Gen 1 was 25000 or higher starting off without much added

Check Engine Light Flickering

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ok I know this one is weird. And without Check Engine Light staying on there is no code.

Girlfriend was driving 2016 Cruze LT Sedan and it seemed to loose power or throttle back. At first I thought it was a ice or slush but when I looked no stability lights on the dash.
But as I looked I saw the check engine flicker and then disappear and all was good again.

Just bought 17 today

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Just bought a 17 cruze today for my girl, her scion was totaled and she fell in love with the hatch. Bought the orange and its stuffed up with all the options. Its going in for tint next Monday and looking forward to see what others are doing to these cars. I was a tech for chevy for 13 years, and now have moved onto german cars for the last 10 years since the money is so much more better than what an American dealership is willing to pay. If I can help in anyway, just hit me up with questions, no question is a dumb one!

How-To: 2011-2016 Cruze Antifreeze/Coolant Flush

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How-To: 2011-2016 Cruze Antifreeze/Coolant Flush


Overview:
The DexCool antifreeze/coolant in the Cruze is rated for 5 years or 150,000 miles, whichever comes first. At the end of that service interval, it needs to be flushed out and replaced with new antifreeze. You can do this easily in your garage with some basic tools and a bucket.


Tools Required:
- 13mm socket & ratchet
- A clean 1+ gallon bucket
- Flathead screwdriver & needle nose pliers, or a plastic fastener removal tool ($7 on amazon.com)
- A T-20 Torx bit and driver
- 2 feet of 5/16" or 1/4" hose (I used 5/16" since I had some old transmission cooler line laying around)


Parts Required:
- 4 gallons distilled water
- 1 gallon 100% concentrate antifreeze

Note: Everything I've read and experienced has noted that DexCool, when used according to its intended service life, is a reliable coolant to use. You can use whatever antifreeze you'd like for this, just pay close attention to its rated service life and make sure to flush it out when it has reached the end of that service life.

For my Cruze, I decided to use AMSOIL's Low Toxicity Propylene Glycol antifreeze, which is rated for 150,000 miles or 5 years (whichever comes first), just like DexCool. This antifreeze is compatible with DexCool and will not cause problems if there is a slight bit of cross-contamination. The reason I chose this was due to its low toxicity (I have kids and a dog and this means I have to store one less toxic product), its excellent corrosion, scaling, and cavitation/pitting resistance, and the fact that it's biodegradable. You can purchase this here: AMSOIL Low Toxicity Antifreeze and Engine Coolant.




Procedure:
First, we will need to remove the under-body shield that sits directly underneath the radiator. Using the T-20 torx bit, remove the six screws holding it on (two are toward the outer edges)


Next, remove the fasteners by lifting the centers out first, then removing the body. I used to do this with a flathead screwdriver and a pair of pliers, but discovered that a plastic fastener removal tool is much quicker.


Slide the shield backward, and you'll be able to see the A/C condenser, intercooler, and radiator.


Take off the radiator cap. If the engine is hot, wait for it to cool down first.


The drain valve is located on the passenger side of the vehicle, to the side of the radiator. It will look like this:


Fit a hose over the barbed fitting, place a bucket underneath the hose, and open the valve. It should loosen by hand. You don't need to take the valve completely out, just loosen it enough to allow the coolant to start pouring. Make sure the hose is secure, and make sure it isn't kinked at the initial outlet.




Next is the flushing process. It is really up to you how many times you want to flush the cooling system. I did it 5 times because I had 4 gallons of distilled water and that allowed me to use it all up. The more times you flush the system, the more of the old coolant you are able to replace. The system holds 5.8 quarts of coolant for the 1.4L. Draining the system using the valve will drain almost exactly 3 quarts (give or take depending on how your vehicle is angled). Here's how much of the old fluid you will have remaining after each flush:

Flush 1: 2.8 quarts
Flush 2: 1.4 quarts
Flush 3: 0.75 quarts
Flush 4: 0.39 quarts
Flush 5: 0.20 quarts

After the 5th flush, you'll have replaced ~96.5% of the old fluid.

To flush the system:
1. Close the valve on the bottom of the radiator
2. Fill up the reservoir with water and keep filling until the level stabilizes, being sure not to go higher than the seam of the reservoir
3. Turn on the car and let it heat up to operating temp. The idea here is to get the engine hot enough to open the thermostat so you can mix what's in the radiator with what's in the rest of the engine.
4. Once you've reached operating temp, turn the car off.
5. Open the drain valve and allow the mixture to drain.
6. Repeat for as many flushes as you want to perform.



Once you've performed all your flushes, you should have the radiator empty with the drain valve closed. Since the system holds 5.8 quarts of fluid and opening the valve only drains 3 quarts, you should have 2.8 quarts remaining. Proceed to refill the cooling system with 100% concentrate coolant. It should only take about 3 quarts to get you to the correct level on the reservoir. This will get you to an almost exact 50/50 mix ratio.

To bleed the system, there is a valve on the passenger top of the radiator facing the rear of the car. You can use a large flathead screwdriver or a 13mm socket to open this valve. Open it and allow air to escape. Once coolant starts flowing out of it, close the valve, being sure not to over-tighten it (it's plastic after all).



Screw the cap back onto the reservoir, and go out for a drive. Once you get back, check the level to make sure it is still good, and if it hasn't gone down too much, you're all set. The system will continue to "burp" air bubbles, so check on the level every now and then for the first couple of weeks and top off as needed.
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